St Hallett Gamekeeper’s Reserve 2007

Barossa, South Australia, Australia
Alcohol: 14.5%
Available in government ($14.23) and private stores

The St Hallett Gamekeeper’s Reserve is the red equivalent of the Poacher’s Blend that I reviewed earlier this month. While neither is a “special occasion” wine, both are reliable and provide excellent value. They are also widely available, making for an easy choice when you’re in a hurry.

Another similarity between the wines is the blend. The label on the Gamekeeper’s Reserve says Shiraz–Grenache (a traditional blend in France’s Rhone Valley), but they use a third grape to give it a bit more character: Touriga Nacional. Never heard of it? No surprise; it’s a Portuguese grape that is traditionally used to make Port. That’s probably how it made its way to Australia, but winemakers have recently been using it in tables wines, either on its own or as part of a blend. Although St Hallett only uses about 4 or 5% Touriga Nacional in this wine, it certainly helps the wine stand out from other inexpensive Rhone inspired blends.

The wine is a dark ruby colour, and has spicy, blackberry, and floral aromas. Once you get it in your mouth, the blackberries are joined by flavours of dark cherries, plum, tobacco, and a touch of smokiness and earthiness. The tannins and acid are soft but obvious from start to finish. The flavours linger in the mouth and the alcohol is pretty obvious during the finish. While there has been no oak aging for this wine, it has had left on the “lees” (the yeast residue that sinks to the bottom of the container after fermentation), adding more complexity.

While this is a wine that is easily enjoyed on its own, it also works well with plenty of foods. It’s light enough to be a Pinot Noir replacement, so will work with lightly flavoured cheeses, meats (e.g., chicken), and vegetables. But it has enough fruit and character to also work with more flavourful foods, such as steaks, lamb, and even mild or medium hot curries.

Wine Suggestions for Thanksgiving Dinner

Thanksgiving is almost upon us, so it seems like a good time to suggest some wines for your turkey dinner.

Many people seem to feel that choosing a wine (or wines) for a turkey dinner is difficult. My response is that there are usually so many different dishes on the table that almost any wine will pair nicely with something! If you choose a wine that you like, you will probably enjoy it with your Thanksgiving dinner as long as it doesn’t wipe out the food flavours.

However, I do have a few classic pairings to help get you started. Any of the aromatic varietals usually work well with turkey: Riesling (dry or off-dry), Gewürztraminer, or Alsatian Pinot Gris come to mind. Lighter reds (such as Pinot Noir, Syrah or Grenache from the Old World, or Gamay) often work well without  overwhelming the flavours of the food.  Rosés are another option, but avoid the sickly sweet, overly fruity ones and go for a drier version.  The Joie Rosé would be great (I know that Firefly Fine Wines & Ales still has some magnums), but there are many other choices.

For something really different, consider a sparkling red. The Australians virtually swear by sparkling reds with turkey dinners. These wines are almost uniquely Australian (Sumac Ridge now makes one too) and not well known in British Columbia, but there are some available here. If you want to splurge, try the E&E Sparkling Shiraz ($69.99 in the government stores): this is made from the famed still wine – always a treat – so this is both an excellent Shiraz and a fun sparkling wine. There is also a Black Chook Sparkling Shiraz ($23.90 in private stores) that I expect will work well.

These are really just some off-the-cuff suggestions. I’m working on a list of wines to enjoy over the Hanukkah/Christmas/New Year season. Look for it in late November.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006

Calatayud DO, Spain
Alcohol: 14%
Available in government ($14.99) and private stores

Spain has a long history of winemaking and several of its regions are well known (e.g., Rioja). In addition to the fine wines, there have also been plenty of rougher, less expensive Spanish wines. It has only been recently, however, that Spain has been a source of inexpensive, well-made, everyday wines. The change is due – at least in part – to an influx of foreign capital into the Spanish wine industry that has allowed the wineries to upgrade their equipment, adopt new techniques, and even improve the science behind the wines.

One of my favourite, nice, inexpensive Spanish reds is the “garnacha de FUEGO”. (FYI, the Spanish “garnacha” is the same as the French “Grenache”.) This wine stands out on the shelf due to the flames on the label, but it also stands out once it’s opened due to the simple “likeability” of what’s in the bottle. Some of the character may be due to the fruit coming from old vines. (“Old vines” is an unregulated term that has come in for some abuse, but I understand that the fruit for this wines comes from vines 30 to 60 years old.)

The wine is an intense, deep red, with some purple tones on the rim. There are aromas of red fruits (such as blackberries, cherries and plums), spices, and even a hint of smoked paprika. The red fruit flavours carry on into the mouth, as does the smoked paprika. The tannins and acid are clearly there, but neither are too noticeable or aggressive. The finish is light but long, making for a nice transition to the next bite of food or another sip of wine.

There is enough fruitiness to the wine for drinking on its own, but it will also work with a wide variety of food. The usual red meats and pastas, of course, but also burgers and pork. This wine would also work well for turkey dinners, as it has the right fruit and spice flavours and is not too strong for the usual turkey dinner dishes.

Liquor Distribution Branch Release of 2005 Bordeaux

If you don’t know, the Liquor Distribution Branch (aka, the government liquor stores) have a coordinated release of their Bordeaux purchases. This year, it’s this Saturday (October 4th). You can find out all the details at their Web site: http://www.bcliquorstores.com/en/instorepromotions/bordeaux2005

To say that I’m not a Bordeaux expert is an understatement. But I do have a link to an article written by one of our local wine experts, Sid Cross. If you are interested in why 2005 is shaping up to be an outstanding Bordeaux vintage or are just looking for some affordable suggestions, I’ll leave you in his hands: http://www.gismondionwine.com/article.php?key=1024

St Hallett Poacher’s Blend 2007

Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia
Alcohol: 11.5%
Available in government ($13.72) and private stores

I recently had the opportunity to attend a tasting led by Stuart Blackwell, the senior winemaker at St Hallett. We tasted some of their top wines, but started with their entry-level white, the Poacher’s Blend. This wine has been one of those wines that I keep coming back to, as it is nice to drink and a good value.

The Poacher’s Blend is a blend of Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. Stuart says that they start with a 60% – 40% blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc and then add the Riesling to get the right blend. (The Riesling usually ends up being between 8% and 12% of the blend.) The Semillon is picked at three different times, with the different pickings adding complexity, acid, and greater balance.

The wine is a pale straw colour, with aromas of tropical fruit and lime. It has a full and viscous mouth feel, without being heavy. The tropical fruit (especially pineapple and melon) carries through, as does the lovely lime and citrus flavours. There is a nice floral lift to the wine and the crisp acid is obvious without being strong. The finish lingers softly and has a crisp end.

This wine goes well with most white fish, including rich seafood (e.g., crab) and those with light cream sauces. (The acid in the wine helps cut through the richness of the sauce, while the richness of the fruit compliments the creaminess.) That said, this is also a nice wine on its own and the lighter alcohol can make for a nice start to a dinner.